Sunday, January 29, 2006
Friday, January 27, 2006
More Bundi
The image of Ram at Sita's Swayamvara...
The path up to the palaces were always steep and stook a sharp turn just before the entrance, so that any invaders would find it difficult to generate momentum to knock down the doors...
The path up to the palaces were always steep and stook a sharp turn just before the entrance, so that any invaders would find it difficult to generate momentum to knock down the doors...
Me...
The palace in front of the old city. Once a upon a time, the Maharaja would gift these havelis to his ministers...
The Bundi Fort
The town of Bundi from the Palace...
The summer palaces of Bundi Fort...
The summer palaces of Bundi Fort...
The Gardens just below the summer palaces...
The amazing murals in the chambers of the maharani. Made up for the lack of intricate carving...
The massive jula within the palace...
More murals, except this was created by a Chinese artist so one can se an Asian Krishna...
The entrance to the palace...
Bundi Fort
Monday, January 23, 2006
Pushkar
Wrote this a couple of nights ago...
I thought Varanasi would be like this. Maybe it will be, just on an enormously massive scale. Varanasi has a population of one million something. Pushkar stands at a paltry 15,000. It has to be different.
Pushkar is famous for a couple of things. The first, well known event is the camel fair at the start of winter which attracts the masses from the world over. The second, less well known, is for its Brahma temple, one of only a handful around.
This is the place, though, for the laid back hippy, wanting to take things easy for a few days. The shops mainly cater for this kind of tourist but also for the main stream Lonely Planet tourist, selling incense sticks and holders, metal bracelets, bangles, necklaces, hats, kurtas, bindis, swords, paintings, t-shirts, camera rolls, memory cards, temporary tattoos, cds, books, nutella, snickers, toilet paper and the list goes on and on. And there are internet cafes at every corner, right next to restaurants serving 'home sick' meals such as pancakes, pizza and felafals (i must confess breakfast for the past two mornings has been chocolate pancakes, while I've also been quite tempted to pick up a jar of nutella for the onward journey). And this is the off-peak season. Around the time of the fair, hotel prices increase nine or ten-fold, so one can only imagine what else maybe available in luxury 'Swiss' tents.
Actually it was only after coming here did I realise the difference in backpacker tourists. To add some relativity, I thought I was roughing it out: cheap accommodation, cheap meals, no real short-term time limits, traveling by government bus, the next destination decided on a whim, not knowing the language and all with the aid of my Lonely Planet (which incidentally, is looking quite shabby and full of character!). I also border on the paranoid and don't trust anyone or anything.
But there are many white people who don't speak or read a shread of English (many of these backpackers, apart fron the English-speaking ones, come from the Asian countries, Israel, Spain, France, Germany and so on), trusting the internet cafÁé guy with his mp3 player, or eating of some dingy shack of the street. And they live a free unencumbered life. For some, Pushkar is a home away from home.
So then why do I worry? Why do I make up an alias? Why do I struggle speaking a Hindi which is so transparent as to mark out clearly that I don't live in India at all? Why?
I think at the heart of this lies the issue of identity. What am I? A foreigner or an Indian? As quick as a flash I tell every hotelier or the attendants at tourist attraction i'm an Indian, but seeing the vast number of sights in a wholly un-Indian way, clicking away with a camera not available locally. There are mixed convictions and reconciling both is slightly difficult.
Anyway, tomorrow I carry on to Jodhpur, the (believe it or not!) second largest city in Rajasthan after Jaipur.
I thought Varanasi would be like this. Maybe it will be, just on an enormously massive scale. Varanasi has a population of one million something. Pushkar stands at a paltry 15,000. It has to be different.
Pushkar is famous for a couple of things. The first, well known event is the camel fair at the start of winter which attracts the masses from the world over. The second, less well known, is for its Brahma temple, one of only a handful around.
This is the place, though, for the laid back hippy, wanting to take things easy for a few days. The shops mainly cater for this kind of tourist but also for the main stream Lonely Planet tourist, selling incense sticks and holders, metal bracelets, bangles, necklaces, hats, kurtas, bindis, swords, paintings, t-shirts, camera rolls, memory cards, temporary tattoos, cds, books, nutella, snickers, toilet paper and the list goes on and on. And there are internet cafes at every corner, right next to restaurants serving 'home sick' meals such as pancakes, pizza and felafals (i must confess breakfast for the past two mornings has been chocolate pancakes, while I've also been quite tempted to pick up a jar of nutella for the onward journey). And this is the off-peak season. Around the time of the fair, hotel prices increase nine or ten-fold, so one can only imagine what else maybe available in luxury 'Swiss' tents.
Actually it was only after coming here did I realise the difference in backpacker tourists. To add some relativity, I thought I was roughing it out: cheap accommodation, cheap meals, no real short-term time limits, traveling by government bus, the next destination decided on a whim, not knowing the language and all with the aid of my Lonely Planet (which incidentally, is looking quite shabby and full of character!). I also border on the paranoid and don't trust anyone or anything.
But there are many white people who don't speak or read a shread of English (many of these backpackers, apart fron the English-speaking ones, come from the Asian countries, Israel, Spain, France, Germany and so on), trusting the internet cafÁé guy with his mp3 player, or eating of some dingy shack of the street. And they live a free unencumbered life. For some, Pushkar is a home away from home.
So then why do I worry? Why do I make up an alias? Why do I struggle speaking a Hindi which is so transparent as to mark out clearly that I don't live in India at all? Why?
I think at the heart of this lies the issue of identity. What am I? A foreigner or an Indian? As quick as a flash I tell every hotelier or the attendants at tourist attraction i'm an Indian, but seeing the vast number of sights in a wholly un-Indian way, clicking away with a camera not available locally. There are mixed convictions and reconciling both is slightly difficult.
Anyway, tomorrow I carry on to Jodhpur, the (believe it or not!) second largest city in Rajasthan after Jaipur.
Thursday, January 19, 2006
The inventory
Right now I'm in Pushkar, most famous for the Camel Fair which occurs in October. I first caught a bus from Bundi to Ajmer and then another for the short trip to here.
I stayed at Hotel Poonam last night and this morning moved to Hotel Khanhiya, which does NOT have a TV.
I did a bit of shopping and picked up some socks(only wear shoes in India, cos I don't want cracked feet by the time I go back, and that it's easy to step in anything), and some Rupa Frontlines (if you know what I mean), bringing the playing XI to about 7.
I also have about six t-shirts, four jumpers (which is way too many!), a big Nike jacket, three trousers (jeans, and two cargo pants adjustable to be shorts or thee-quarters), a pair of shorts, some Johnson and Johnson baby wipes, a large scrolled map of India, and heaps of cables and wires for my PDA, camera and phone.
Thanks to Malaysian Airlines, I have a thin blanket (which always goes between me and the hotel-issue blankets), and a mini pillow. Asteron had a whole bunch of St.John Ambos medical kit which I supplemented with some local pills, which, inshallah, I may not need to use.
So that's the inventory thus far.
By the way this is the dribble I produce when given too much time!
I stayed at Hotel Poonam last night and this morning moved to Hotel Khanhiya, which does NOT have a TV.
I did a bit of shopping and picked up some socks(only wear shoes in India, cos I don't want cracked feet by the time I go back, and that it's easy to step in anything), and some Rupa Frontlines (if you know what I mean), bringing the playing XI to about 7.
I also have about six t-shirts, four jumpers (which is way too many!), a big Nike jacket, three trousers (jeans, and two cargo pants adjustable to be shorts or thee-quarters), a pair of shorts, some Johnson and Johnson baby wipes, a large scrolled map of India, and heaps of cables and wires for my PDA, camera and phone.
Thanks to Malaysian Airlines, I have a thin blanket (which always goes between me and the hotel-issue blankets), and a mini pillow. Asteron had a whole bunch of St.John Ambos medical kit which I supplemented with some local pills, which, inshallah, I may not need to use.
So that's the inventory thus far.
By the way this is the dribble I produce when given too much time!
Shaving...
So after not shaving since the middle of Gujarat, I decided to let it all go, and that too, not by the blade of my trusty Mach 3, but a good ol' cut-throat around the corner from my new TV-less room in Pushkar.
And it's quite an experience. Not just a shave but a facial treatment. So I sit in the chair, and he asks me which shaving cream I want. For kicks I go for Old Spice! He starts lathering me, and keeps on going and going! In the time he took to properly foam me up, I would ordinarily have finished the entire shave.
That done, he starts shaving with the cut-throat and a new blade. Each movement of the cut-throat is like the wand of a conductor, organising, leading and creating an orchestra in the composition of the most beautiful symphony ever known. And that's what it is, a symphony.
Having completed the graceful tune, he returns for an encore, re-lathering me, and again running that wand over my face. It hurts like hell, cos I haven't shaved in a while, and the pores on my face have never faced the likes of this cut-throat.
Anyway, the barber, as though understanding my plight quickly moved on to the second part, the treatment phase. On my face, before I knew it, was 'Herbal Cool Cream'. He polished not only the region terrorised by cut-throat but my entire face. In doing this, I also got a hearty facial massage. The final touch was the after shave. Now I don't normally use the stuff so this was a bit of extravagance. When the Old Spice hit my face, I was like Maukauly (?) Kulkin from Home Alone. It stung but it was great!
So now i'm thinking of buying a cut-throat and some Old Spice...
And it's quite an experience. Not just a shave but a facial treatment. So I sit in the chair, and he asks me which shaving cream I want. For kicks I go for Old Spice! He starts lathering me, and keeps on going and going! In the time he took to properly foam me up, I would ordinarily have finished the entire shave.
That done, he starts shaving with the cut-throat and a new blade. Each movement of the cut-throat is like the wand of a conductor, organising, leading and creating an orchestra in the composition of the most beautiful symphony ever known. And that's what it is, a symphony.
Having completed the graceful tune, he returns for an encore, re-lathering me, and again running that wand over my face. It hurts like hell, cos I haven't shaved in a while, and the pores on my face have never faced the likes of this cut-throat.
Anyway, the barber, as though understanding my plight quickly moved on to the second part, the treatment phase. On my face, before I knew it, was 'Herbal Cool Cream'. He polished not only the region terrorised by cut-throat but my entire face. In doing this, I also got a hearty facial massage. The final touch was the after shave. Now I don't normally use the stuff so this was a bit of extravagance. When the Old Spice hit my face, I was like Maukauly (?) Kulkin from Home Alone. It stung but it was great!
So now i'm thinking of buying a cut-throat and some Old Spice...
Chitoor
Two hours from Udaipur lies the small unimpressive town of Chitoor.
Chitoors only attraction is its fort. And that to is unimpressive. There is beauty though, but this lies in it's romantic tryst with the ideals of the warrior. On three separate occasions in it's history, facing defeat from a surrounding enemy, instead of surrendering their lot, they committed the act of jauhar: both men and women, against all odds, rode out to die.
Chitoors only attraction is its fort. And that to is unimpressive. There is beauty though, but this lies in it's romantic tryst with the ideals of the warrior. On three separate occasions in it's history, facing defeat from a surrounding enemy, instead of surrendering their lot, they committed the act of jauhar: both men and women, against all odds, rode out to die.
Udaipur
Udaipur is the ultimate A-grade tourist town. In every way possible, the entire population must be touched by the tourist trade.
The towns interior, especially close to the magnificent City Palace is the place to be for any tourist wanting to be in the thick of the action.
Lately when writing about a town, I put myself back there, amongst the bazaars, the little shacks selling whatever, and I feel inspired, where the words just form thmselves.
Unfortunately for Udaipur apart from the palace, I really don't feel I can say much for the place. It seems a little too touristy, almost made up.
Maybe you can find something in the pictures that I couldn't find in being there.
The towns interior, especially close to the magnificent City Palace is the place to be for any tourist wanting to be in the thick of the action.
Lately when writing about a town, I put myself back there, amongst the bazaars, the little shacks selling whatever, and I feel inspired, where the words just form thmselves.
Unfortunately for Udaipur apart from the palace, I really don't feel I can say much for the place. It seems a little too touristy, almost made up.
Maybe you can find something in the pictures that I couldn't find in being there.
Bundi II
I finally saw the palace and the fort and, really it is one stupendous scene.
The palace has only been open for a couple of years, as the maharaja was previously in army and now retired, needed some money or thing to do. It's slowly being restored to it's former glory, and there is much work to be done.
Most of the palaces in Rajasthan have been built from sandstone, and therefore are quite intricately carved and sculpted. In Bundi, however, the stone used is a much harder local variety. Due to that, there isn't much by way of carvings in the pure Rajput-style architecture. To compensate on the walls of the bedrooms of the rani and raja, are intricately detailed and designed wall paintings of various occasions in the life of a kingdom. Gods (especially Krishna) and goddesses, are also heavily featured. Also featured extensively throughout the palace are statues of elephants and horses. Elephants were the sign of prosperity and wealth while horses indicated power.
One can easily make out these Rajput warriors were believers in god and devotees of a dharma entrenched many generations ago.
Bundi as a town is charming. Many of the lanes within the old city wind and weave their way through to markets and bazaars selling all kinds of things. The people on the street willingly say "hello", not to extort the tourist for whatever they may be worth, but to pursue a simple, basic quality of humanity: to be friendly and decent.
The palace has only been open for a couple of years, as the maharaja was previously in army and now retired, needed some money or thing to do. It's slowly being restored to it's former glory, and there is much work to be done.
Most of the palaces in Rajasthan have been built from sandstone, and therefore are quite intricately carved and sculpted. In Bundi, however, the stone used is a much harder local variety. Due to that, there isn't much by way of carvings in the pure Rajput-style architecture. To compensate on the walls of the bedrooms of the rani and raja, are intricately detailed and designed wall paintings of various occasions in the life of a kingdom. Gods (especially Krishna) and goddesses, are also heavily featured. Also featured extensively throughout the palace are statues of elephants and horses. Elephants were the sign of prosperity and wealth while horses indicated power.
One can easily make out these Rajput warriors were believers in god and devotees of a dharma entrenched many generations ago.
Bundi as a town is charming. Many of the lanes within the old city wind and weave their way through to markets and bazaars selling all kinds of things. The people on the street willingly say "hello", not to extort the tourist for whatever they may be worth, but to pursue a simple, basic quality of humanity: to be friendly and decent.
Bundi
So tonight I reside in a town called Bundi. I'm staying in a delightful little haveli. I arrived late last night and didn't get a glimpse of the town.
he room I'm in feels like a guest room of a family house. The double bed tucked into the corner dominates the room. Other pieces of furniture are two cane chairs and a coffee table in the opposite corner. The walls behind the bed and near the chairs have inlaid shelves and these are decorated with various Rajasthan-related tourist material and the odd peacock feather. Above the shelves are typical paintings from this part of the world. The feature though, is an elaborate 3d picture of Rama & Sita. The part which makes it a genuine room in a haveli - and not a hotel room - is the lack of a tv. In Porbander I stayed in a single room for Rs.150 per night, which came with, even at that rate, a tv and 50 million channels!
But to really drive home the effect last night was probably the best i've slept since leaving Bangalore. I felt like I was home!
The haveli is itself very impressive. Somehow despite the heat outside, inside it's quite chilled. As you enter there's a central courtyard surrounded by rooms. The second floor follows the same design only that instead of the courtyard, one can see straight through to the ground floor. Above the second floor is the terrace, with it's roof top café.
So like I said, I arrived late in the night and didn't see much. So when I went to the café for breakfast imagine my astonishment when confronted with this...(pic will come later!)
And I haven't seen the palace or the fort yet. That's tomorrow along with Sukh Mahal, the place where Kipling stayed while writing Kim.
PS I just came back from dinner(at 2130), and the front door was closed but not locked. As I walked in it felt as though I came home really late after a night out!
he room I'm in feels like a guest room of a family house. The double bed tucked into the corner dominates the room. Other pieces of furniture are two cane chairs and a coffee table in the opposite corner. The walls behind the bed and near the chairs have inlaid shelves and these are decorated with various Rajasthan-related tourist material and the odd peacock feather. Above the shelves are typical paintings from this part of the world. The feature though, is an elaborate 3d picture of Rama & Sita. The part which makes it a genuine room in a haveli - and not a hotel room - is the lack of a tv. In Porbander I stayed in a single room for Rs.150 per night, which came with, even at that rate, a tv and 50 million channels!
But to really drive home the effect last night was probably the best i've slept since leaving Bangalore. I felt like I was home!
The haveli is itself very impressive. Somehow despite the heat outside, inside it's quite chilled. As you enter there's a central courtyard surrounded by rooms. The second floor follows the same design only that instead of the courtyard, one can see straight through to the ground floor. Above the second floor is the terrace, with it's roof top café.
So like I said, I arrived late in the night and didn't see much. So when I went to the café for breakfast imagine my astonishment when confronted with this...(pic will come later!)
And I haven't seen the palace or the fort yet. That's tomorrow along with Sukh Mahal, the place where Kipling stayed while writing Kim.
PS I just came back from dinner(at 2130), and the front door was closed but not locked. As I walked in it felt as though I came home really late after a night out!
Wednesday, January 18, 2006
So What Do I Do At Night?
Well call me an uncultured NRI swine, but the TV is great! Immature tabloid journalism; all the sitcoms ever produced; any non-explicit B-grade movie staring A-grade actors; and on top,the icing, the cream and cherry: any one of India's cricket tours in the 70's, 80's or 90's to England or to Aus. If you add to that ESPN's "Great Indian Partnerships", and even a bit of the live stuff to remind you of today's time (ie. lunch, tea or stumps) and date (day 1, 2, 3 etc) then there's really no need to step outside!
So you see, sadly, the reason why there are all these posts on what i've been up to is due to the creation of ambiance at this haveli. No, I haven't spent hours in an internet cafÁé, but have been using my pda, and then tranfering the word files using a memory card and reader. Most places have XP, so it's been easy. The only thing which has sucked is up loading pics, which takes forever!
Anyway at this haveli i've even been practing my Hindi from the dictionaries I picked up, and sometimes try and figure out what I do the next day!
So yeah. That's where i'm up to.
So you see, sadly, the reason why there are all these posts on what i've been up to is due to the creation of ambiance at this haveli. No, I haven't spent hours in an internet cafÁé, but have been using my pda, and then tranfering the word files using a memory card and reader. Most places have XP, so it's been easy. The only thing which has sucked is up loading pics, which takes forever!
Anyway at this haveli i've even been practing my Hindi from the dictionaries I picked up, and sometimes try and figure out what I do the next day!
So yeah. That's where i'm up to.
My mind set part II
It occurred to me some time ago that I stopped converting rupees to dollar's. My definition of value has now become relative to other goods and services consumed here in India. For example Rs.30 (approximately = AUD$0.95) will get you further in a rickshaw in Gujarat then it will in Rajasthan. I find it expensive when a meal costs more than Rs.100 (approximately = AUD$3.30). I'm loathe to stay in a room for more than Rs.300 (approximately = AUD$9.00) a night. Even though my numerical supremacy in Hindi can be matched and surpassed by a preschooler, I ensure that what I am being charged is really what it costs.
My point is that it's very easy to become stingy and to stretch your money to as far as possible. I am from a different background and I am more privileged than many people here, so what's the big deal if I pay a dollar or two more than the going rate? The deal I guess, is ensuring that the distribution is not skewed. Chances are that the person who has just profited from me has done the same from many others. It's the wretchedly homeless who are in dire straits.
I think also that i've matured in what I see day to day. Once upon a time, I would have snapped a picture of a tractor with too much hay than what was humanly possible, but now, by virtue of having seen it that many times, am not so impressed!
And finally to the paranoia: it still lurks in the dark corridors but has been quietly sedated by the passage of time and the experiences of a vast number of lands.
My point is that it's very easy to become stingy and to stretch your money to as far as possible. I am from a different background and I am more privileged than many people here, so what's the big deal if I pay a dollar or two more than the going rate? The deal I guess, is ensuring that the distribution is not skewed. Chances are that the person who has just profited from me has done the same from many others. It's the wretchedly homeless who are in dire straits.
I think also that i've matured in what I see day to day. Once upon a time, I would have snapped a picture of a tractor with too much hay than what was humanly possible, but now, by virtue of having seen it that many times, am not so impressed!
And finally to the paranoia: it still lurks in the dark corridors but has been quietly sedated by the passage of time and the experiences of a vast number of lands.
Modhera
Hundred and something km north of Ahmedabad lies the Modhera Sun Temple. It resembles the more well known Surya Mandir in Konark but predates it by a couple of centuries.
I really was expecting more in terms of size, but was there is itself amazing. In front of the temple is a large kund with multiple steps to the bottom. In the upper corners and sides are shrines to various gods, including Shiva and Ganesha.
The main temple itself is split into two buildings. Its said that King Bhim I would often have dance performances in the front portion. The main section was for religious discources.
While the surroundings of the Surya Mandir are quite well maintained with luscious green lawns, the complex is not well serviced. I caught an 8am bus from Ahmedabad, got off at a major intersection, and waited for a bus. With no signs to indicate one was on the way, I caught a shared jeep, and soon found myself in the back of an oversized ute with 20 other people!
The jeep-ute-thing stopped at the bus stand, and had I not asked there was no way I would have known that Modhera had anything near to an exquisite thousand year old temple.
I really was expecting more in terms of size, but was there is itself amazing. In front of the temple is a large kund with multiple steps to the bottom. In the upper corners and sides are shrines to various gods, including Shiva and Ganesha.
The main temple itself is split into two buildings. Its said that King Bhim I would often have dance performances in the front portion. The main section was for religious discources.
While the surroundings of the Surya Mandir are quite well maintained with luscious green lawns, the complex is not well serviced. I caught an 8am bus from Ahmedabad, got off at a major intersection, and waited for a bus. With no signs to indicate one was on the way, I caught a shared jeep, and soon found myself in the back of an oversized ute with 20 other people!
The jeep-ute-thing stopped at the bus stand, and had I not asked there was no way I would have known that Modhera had anything near to an exquisite thousand year old temple.
Jamnagar & Rajkot
I visited these two cities towards the end of the tour of Gujarat. In hind sight they should have been some of the first only because by this time my enthusiasm for places of worship for any religion had nose dived into an irrecoverable position.
So really in Jamnagar, I was there for less than 12 hours, time shared predominantly by sleeping but also equally between site-seeing, updating my blog, and watching Star TV.
Rajkot had a little more to offer. Gandhiji's residence provided more and all in all was a nice delight.
So really in Jamnagar, I was there for less than 12 hours, time shared predominantly by sleeping but also equally between site-seeing, updating my blog, and watching Star TV.
Rajkot had a little more to offer. Gandhiji's residence provided more and all in all was a nice delight.
Dwarka
A compliment to the trip in Somnath incorporated the place where Krishna was fatally wounded. Dwarka then was the chance to be near His kingdom. Obviously one does not see the ancient city but the temple there is magnificent. The picture and the high walls conspire to do injustice to the mandir, however from within the walls, all five elaborately carved levels are some of the most superb architecture thus far on the trip.
After Palitana, the next place where I saw tourists in the true sense was at Dwarka. Capitalising on this, a tour called Dwarka Darshan is run, and in every sense of the word, is a Darshan. If there ever was a record for the most number of mandirs in four hours, this was it.
After Palitana, the next place where I saw tourists in the true sense was at Dwarka. Capitalising on this, a tour called Dwarka Darshan is run, and in every sense of the word, is a Darshan. If there ever was a record for the most number of mandirs in four hours, this was it.
Tuesday, January 17, 2006
Ritchie...
"My grandma has a crush on Richie Benaud" A banner at the Gabba which prompted Mark Nicholas to ask "Is that necessarily a good thing?" of his fellow commentator. "Depends on the grandma," replied Benaud, quick as a flash
http://content-ind.cricinfo.com/quote/content/page/156062.html
http://content-ind.cricinfo.com/quote/content/page/156062.html
Sunday, January 15, 2006
Gujarat
So I finished traveling around Gujarat and the entire trip of 10 days blew past just like that!
So I started of at a place called Palitana (pics below). The climb to the top of the hill took 2hrs - in my hopelessly paneer filled state - and 3000+ steps. By the time I reached the top I was exhausted and humiliated. A little girl followed me up most of the way, offering to carry my bag to assist me. My pride didn't allow me to avail the offer, but I made it, and the sight from the top was well worth the effort.
From Palitana, I took of to a place called Junagadh, also famous for Jain temples on top of a hill, only this time the climb was 10,000 steps. After the previous climb, I let this chance pass. Junagadh also sports Ashokan rock edicts. Edicts King Ashoka had inscribed on the side of a rock stating the 14 laws on how to live life. Later Maurayan Kings added to the 14.
The pilgrimage part of the tour began at the next leg in Somnath. Somnath is well renowned for its Shiva temple, and after an afternoon of visiting various temples, the next morning, I was fortunate to have a darshan of the 7am arthi.
Pobander was next on the list, and home to Gandhiji's brthplace. The entire visit lasted not more than 12/15 hours, but was some of the most peaceful of the trip so far. Porbander is a small sleepy town, where everyone seems to know everyone else and life is sleepyily continued. Gandhiji's birthplace doesn't bring a magical aura, but is a simple tribute to a simple man.
Anyways, will stop for now cos the power is going to be cut, here in Chitoor, about 2hours north east of Udaipur in the remarkable state of Rajasthan.
So I started of at a place called Palitana (pics below). The climb to the top of the hill took 2hrs - in my hopelessly paneer filled state - and 3000+ steps. By the time I reached the top I was exhausted and humiliated. A little girl followed me up most of the way, offering to carry my bag to assist me. My pride didn't allow me to avail the offer, but I made it, and the sight from the top was well worth the effort.
From Palitana, I took of to a place called Junagadh, also famous for Jain temples on top of a hill, only this time the climb was 10,000 steps. After the previous climb, I let this chance pass. Junagadh also sports Ashokan rock edicts. Edicts King Ashoka had inscribed on the side of a rock stating the 14 laws on how to live life. Later Maurayan Kings added to the 14.
The pilgrimage part of the tour began at the next leg in Somnath. Somnath is well renowned for its Shiva temple, and after an afternoon of visiting various temples, the next morning, I was fortunate to have a darshan of the 7am arthi.
Pobander was next on the list, and home to Gandhiji's brthplace. The entire visit lasted not more than 12/15 hours, but was some of the most peaceful of the trip so far. Porbander is a small sleepy town, where everyone seems to know everyone else and life is sleepyily continued. Gandhiji's birthplace doesn't bring a magical aura, but is a simple tribute to a simple man.
Anyways, will stop for now cos the power is going to be cut, here in Chitoor, about 2hours north east of Udaipur in the remarkable state of Rajasthan.
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Chowpatty and Haji Ali
A closer view of Haji Ali...
The path way leading to Haji Ali at a distance. Haji Ali was a wealthy businessman, who, while on a pilgrimage to Mecca, died and his casket floated back to this spot. During high tide the water comes right up to the height of the pathway, some times submerging it.
The view from Chowpatty Beach towards Walkeshwar...
Where Am I Now?
Today am in Jamnagar. Yesterday I was in Dwarka and the day before that was Porbander. This is really flying by and am having a ball.
Tomorrow I leave for Rajkot, and reading about Rajastan is making me real excited.
Tomorrow I leave for Rajkot, and reading about Rajastan is making me real excited.
Bombay
So to Bombay. Bombay, I think, is the best place (so far) in India. There's excitement, action, wealth, poverty, heartbreak, and theres something to doo all the time!
Some may not agree. They may feel Bangalore is THE throbbing metropolis, but with my lack of experience of Bangalore with regards to that, I shall contend that Bombay is the place to be.
So I did all the corny stuff. I'd been to Bombay before and wandered around and seen the touristy sites (such as Marine Drive, Gateway, Colaba yada yada yada...), but this time it was different. Very different.
First thing was, unashamedly, my Lonely Planet. It gave me the places to see. I never realised there was so much. I was awakened by it.
The second thing was, reading a couple of books on and based in Bombay. These were Shantaram and Maximum City.
Shantaram is effectively set in Colaba, and Leopolds Cafe is right in its heart. So I had to go there and check it out. Even bought a t-shirt. Then there was Flora Fountain, the entire Causeway, VT, and so on...
That done, I had to see DDLJ. So I went to Martha Mandir, near Mumbai Central (I think - Sunil, correct me if I'm wrong), the theatre which, in May racked up its 500th screening of that movie. Even for a Saturday matinee, there were well in excess of a 150 people, although most of them were guys, who probably needed reassurance that dreams could come true. Don't know if the rumour that all these guys went to Mumbai Central train station after the movie is true either, but you never know...
I also tried to take a pic of Sachin Tendulkars place. I thought that maybe, just maybe, he may have been in the grounds of his building playing cricket with his son, and needed an extra player, and then he would have seen me and...
Actually the prelude to that was quite an experience! I caught a train from Churchgate, around 4:30pm, and got off at Dadar, with the intention going to the Sidhi Vinayak temple. In the past few weeks Sachin had gone there as well as the movie star Dev Anand. So wanting to know what the fuss was about, I went as well. (good enough for Sachin and Dev Anand, then good enough for me!) Turns out its quite an old Ganesh temple, and is flocked to by the plebs and aristocracy alike.
So by the time I was done, it was 5:30 and the absolute middle of middles of peak hour. Riding my luck I somehow got on the train - sorry, pushed on! - and as you do, always ask which side the station you want to alight at, will come. So I was told Bandra will come on my left and stood prepared, close to the door way, but not enough to be bundled out. I started counting the stations and before I knew it Bandra had arrived but I thought it was the previous station. So I restisted the rush and stayed inside. Everyone knew I wanted to get of at Bandra, and told me so! But it seemed too late. With people rushing in like rats, I gave up and just stood there thining, I may as well go to Andheri and to home. But this one guy behind me smiled mischeiviously and ran straight into my back thrusting me -and I think other people - out the door. If you have never been in a Bombay train at peak hour you have to experience it, at least once. It would never be fun riding the trains day in, day out, but as a trviality, its great!
Anyways, back to Sachin. So I made it out of Bandra alive, and went to a rickshaw driver. He said he knew where Shah Rukh lived, but not Sachin. Bollywood or cricket? Whats your pick? Disinterested, I went to the next guy and he said he knew. "Pukha?" "Ha" he replied and off we went.
Unlike the rest of Bomabay, Bandra still sports a few Bungalows. Its remarkable considering their value, that they still stand in that state. So we made it to the lane in which He stays. The lane is a dead end, with the option of two gates. He lives inside the one on the left hand side. But just past the gates resides a security guard. I asked does Sachin live here? Yes was the reply. At least I was within his vicinity. What are you doing here? Truthfully, I asked, can i take some pics? No. Then I pulled out that I'm here all the way from Australia, just for this, and a few other lies, but it didn't work. We turned around and went back. At least I know where he lives.
In a nutshell that was Bombay for me. There are pics below, and hopefully I'll put some more up soon.
Some may not agree. They may feel Bangalore is THE throbbing metropolis, but with my lack of experience of Bangalore with regards to that, I shall contend that Bombay is the place to be.
So I did all the corny stuff. I'd been to Bombay before and wandered around and seen the touristy sites (such as Marine Drive, Gateway, Colaba yada yada yada...), but this time it was different. Very different.
First thing was, unashamedly, my Lonely Planet. It gave me the places to see. I never realised there was so much. I was awakened by it.
The second thing was, reading a couple of books on and based in Bombay. These were Shantaram and Maximum City.
Shantaram is effectively set in Colaba, and Leopolds Cafe is right in its heart. So I had to go there and check it out. Even bought a t-shirt. Then there was Flora Fountain, the entire Causeway, VT, and so on...
That done, I had to see DDLJ. So I went to Martha Mandir, near Mumbai Central (I think - Sunil, correct me if I'm wrong), the theatre which, in May racked up its 500th screening of that movie. Even for a Saturday matinee, there were well in excess of a 150 people, although most of them were guys, who probably needed reassurance that dreams could come true. Don't know if the rumour that all these guys went to Mumbai Central train station after the movie is true either, but you never know...
I also tried to take a pic of Sachin Tendulkars place. I thought that maybe, just maybe, he may have been in the grounds of his building playing cricket with his son, and needed an extra player, and then he would have seen me and...
Actually the prelude to that was quite an experience! I caught a train from Churchgate, around 4:30pm, and got off at Dadar, with the intention going to the Sidhi Vinayak temple. In the past few weeks Sachin had gone there as well as the movie star Dev Anand. So wanting to know what the fuss was about, I went as well. (good enough for Sachin and Dev Anand, then good enough for me!) Turns out its quite an old Ganesh temple, and is flocked to by the plebs and aristocracy alike.
So by the time I was done, it was 5:30 and the absolute middle of middles of peak hour. Riding my luck I somehow got on the train - sorry, pushed on! - and as you do, always ask which side the station you want to alight at, will come. So I was told Bandra will come on my left and stood prepared, close to the door way, but not enough to be bundled out. I started counting the stations and before I knew it Bandra had arrived but I thought it was the previous station. So I restisted the rush and stayed inside. Everyone knew I wanted to get of at Bandra, and told me so! But it seemed too late. With people rushing in like rats, I gave up and just stood there thining, I may as well go to Andheri and to home. But this one guy behind me smiled mischeiviously and ran straight into my back thrusting me -and I think other people - out the door. If you have never been in a Bombay train at peak hour you have to experience it, at least once. It would never be fun riding the trains day in, day out, but as a trviality, its great!
Anyways, back to Sachin. So I made it out of Bandra alive, and went to a rickshaw driver. He said he knew where Shah Rukh lived, but not Sachin. Bollywood or cricket? Whats your pick? Disinterested, I went to the next guy and he said he knew. "Pukha?" "Ha" he replied and off we went.
Unlike the rest of Bomabay, Bandra still sports a few Bungalows. Its remarkable considering their value, that they still stand in that state. So we made it to the lane in which He stays. The lane is a dead end, with the option of two gates. He lives inside the one on the left hand side. But just past the gates resides a security guard. I asked does Sachin live here? Yes was the reply. At least I was within his vicinity. What are you doing here? Truthfully, I asked, can i take some pics? No. Then I pulled out that I'm here all the way from Australia, just for this, and a few other lies, but it didn't work. We turned around and went back. At least I know where he lives.
In a nutshell that was Bombay for me. There are pics below, and hopefully I'll put some more up soon.
Sunday, January 08, 2006
The journey of the South
Am in a very typey kinda mood (and Aurangzeb refuses to yeild his pics!), so I should fill you in, what I've been up to after Rameshwaram, and before Ajanta.
Straight after Rames, we (Rahul and I) went to Madurai, where we wanted to take it easy. We ordered room service and slept.
From there, it was to Kanyakumari. An 8hr hour bus trip on a government special! That really did the trick! Kanyakumari is special. You can feel it in your bones when you get to the point that is India's end. You stand and look forth, thinking this is the end, and you feel a shiver up your spine.
Then theres Vivekananda's rock. Its quite a monument. Construction would have been quite a challenge. The boat ride to the rock is rocky and blusterous. Quite a few times the ocean water jumps up and soaks every one peering for a view. On the rock itself the main hall has inside a statue of Vivekananda. Below the hall is a meditation room, and despite the crashing of the waves and the noise of the wind, you can barely hear anything at all inside.
Outside, the wind is tremendous. One can pretty much let themselves be carried by the force.
The only thing about Kaniyakumari, is that theres not that much to see. It can be done in half a day. So its best to takent he surrounding sites as well.
So from Kaniyakumari, we went to Trivandrum, from where our flight left for Bombay. Didn't really see much of the city, although we noticed a a plethora of study-book stores and that women had a more prominent role in the running of a business.
Anyways, should go. Next edition will be Bombay...
Straight after Rames, we (Rahul and I) went to Madurai, where we wanted to take it easy. We ordered room service and slept.
From there, it was to Kanyakumari. An 8hr hour bus trip on a government special! That really did the trick! Kanyakumari is special. You can feel it in your bones when you get to the point that is India's end. You stand and look forth, thinking this is the end, and you feel a shiver up your spine.
Then theres Vivekananda's rock. Its quite a monument. Construction would have been quite a challenge. The boat ride to the rock is rocky and blusterous. Quite a few times the ocean water jumps up and soaks every one peering for a view. On the rock itself the main hall has inside a statue of Vivekananda. Below the hall is a meditation room, and despite the crashing of the waves and the noise of the wind, you can barely hear anything at all inside.
Outside, the wind is tremendous. One can pretty much let themselves be carried by the force.
The only thing about Kaniyakumari, is that theres not that much to see. It can be done in half a day. So its best to takent he surrounding sites as well.
So from Kaniyakumari, we went to Trivandrum, from where our flight left for Bombay. Didn't really see much of the city, although we noticed a a plethora of study-book stores and that women had a more prominent role in the running of a business.
Anyways, should go. Next edition will be Bombay...
What every cricket lover must have for his car!!!
PS its working, so I'll give Aurangzeb another chance....
Saturday, January 07, 2006
The state of me
Ok, so the net is real slow, and I'm getting quite frustrated. So no more pics for today!
So I'll entertain you in other ways, just not using your eyes...well, you'll have to use them to read, but not to see...the pics...?
Anyways, these days I'm becoming quite paranoid. I already lost my first camera. So every where I've been, the family has been hounding me, quite correctly, about the cam. Fair enough. So i look for it every two seconds, on average. Most people say be careful when you go to touristy places, cos they're the worst, you may get mugged or burgled or whatever. Well, I lost mine at a pretty decent place. Didn't need a touristy place to lose it. I left it on a table at a party after Sunitas wedding, and then 10min later it was gone.
And then, in Bombay, at a mutt (pronounced as muttah) we did a puja, and I left my awesome hush puppy sandals outside, and when I came back after lunch, they were gone!
So maybe you can understand my paranoia. But its spreading now. I was on the bus from Junagadh to Somnath this morning, and my bag was in the back of the bus, in the luggage area. For some reason, I thought the bag may have fallen out, the contents of which was spread over rural Gujarat for some kids to enjoy.
I think it all goes back to a few months ago. I had come to India then and was on the train between Cal and Delhi. On my previous trips, one of the best experiences I had was hanging out of a train, feeling the wind blow in my face, holding a video camera, to in some way, convey what i was feeling. So I tried it again, but this time, my hat went flying and some poor Bihari kid is now sporting a Man U hat.
And thats when it started. I then had images of falling out of the train. And if that happened, how was I to get anywhere? I would be stranded and lost, and no one would know...
So I stopped hanging out of a train. And now I'm fearful my bag may drop out of a locked compartment. I woke up at 3am to make sure my camera was in my bag and that the door to my hotel room was locked.
So thats my state. Paranoia.
Apart from that I'm doing just fine!
So I'll entertain you in other ways, just not using your eyes...well, you'll have to use them to read, but not to see...the pics...?
Anyways, these days I'm becoming quite paranoid. I already lost my first camera. So every where I've been, the family has been hounding me, quite correctly, about the cam. Fair enough. So i look for it every two seconds, on average. Most people say be careful when you go to touristy places, cos they're the worst, you may get mugged or burgled or whatever. Well, I lost mine at a pretty decent place. Didn't need a touristy place to lose it. I left it on a table at a party after Sunitas wedding, and then 10min later it was gone.
And then, in Bombay, at a mutt (pronounced as muttah) we did a puja, and I left my awesome hush puppy sandals outside, and when I came back after lunch, they were gone!
So maybe you can understand my paranoia. But its spreading now. I was on the bus from Junagadh to Somnath this morning, and my bag was in the back of the bus, in the luggage area. For some reason, I thought the bag may have fallen out, the contents of which was spread over rural Gujarat for some kids to enjoy.
I think it all goes back to a few months ago. I had come to India then and was on the train between Cal and Delhi. On my previous trips, one of the best experiences I had was hanging out of a train, feeling the wind blow in my face, holding a video camera, to in some way, convey what i was feeling. So I tried it again, but this time, my hat went flying and some poor Bihari kid is now sporting a Man U hat.
And thats when it started. I then had images of falling out of the train. And if that happened, how was I to get anywhere? I would be stranded and lost, and no one would know...
So I stopped hanging out of a train. And now I'm fearful my bag may drop out of a locked compartment. I woke up at 3am to make sure my camera was in my bag and that the door to my hotel room was locked.
So thats my state. Paranoia.
Apart from that I'm doing just fine!
Random pics
For some reason the Aurangzeb pics aren't coming up...so here are some others, more random.
Actually from time to time, I'll put up pics of random people, who I think, exude charatcer, mystery or some unknown quality. Let me know what you think...
The first was taken at Haji Ali in Bombay. In all the squalor, you wonder what he's thinking about...
This is my fav pic so far...of a Rajasthani (?) taken just before we went to Elora caves.
Actually from time to time, I'll put up pics of random people, who I think, exude charatcer, mystery or some unknown quality. Let me know what you think...
The first was taken at Haji Ali in Bombay. In all the squalor, you wonder what he's thinking about...
This is my fav pic so far...of a Rajasthani (?) taken just before we went to Elora caves.
Somnath
So today I'm in Somnath, on the South Western coast of Gujarat. Its most famous for its temple, the err...Somnath Temple! Its one of the 12 most holiest Shiva temples...and I visit it tomorrow.
So i have more pics to put up. Yesterday, you saw Bibi-ka-Maqbura, the tomb Aurangzeb built for his wife. Unfortunately, as you'll see, he himself didn't get it that good after he died, but then, he didn't want anything big, so that explains that!
So i have more pics to put up. Yesterday, you saw Bibi-ka-Maqbura, the tomb Aurangzeb built for his wife. Unfortunately, as you'll see, he himself didn't get it that good after he died, but then, he didn't want anything big, so that explains that!
I'm in love
So really, am in love. Paneer butter masala. Very fine dish. Its pretty what i eat most days. Skip breakfast and head straight for that around 12ish...Not healthy but theres no parent within a 20hr flight of me!!!! That way I haven't lost weight and probably have gained some.
So yeah keeping well. Managing ok. Currently in Junagadh, and I plan to leave for Somnath tom sometime. You know those old rackety gov't buses? Thats what I travel in. Its not that bad. You just need to develop a technique to deal with the bumps, otherwise your but gets a severe whack!
And slowly my Hindi is improving. I find myself even thinking in my broken Hindi. So it was great when I spoke to Neeraj today. Another Aussie accent! Actually mine is holding up rather well. Or so a friend told me over the phone. I hunt down tourists and have a chat. And although everyone asks "which country are you from?" I reply "nai...mai Bangalore sai hoon". The hardest guys to covince so far are htel guys over the phone. Which is quite a lot considering from my appearance I stand out like a sre thumb. Don't really need to colour my hair to scream tourist!
But am living the back packer life. I have a back pack and kit bag which does the trick. I decide a couple of days in advance where I go next, and I talk to anyone who wants to talk to me. My opening line at a bus stop is where does this bus go. And it flows from there.
In Ajanta myself and some Americans got lost from the tour guide, so we chatted. Zack is in the military based in Japan, and in the future wants to study arts and history in India. Brave. I also ran into some Italians at Shatrunjaya, but I kept my distance.
But apart from talking to foreigners I have been good. Someone asked me how the girls are and whether I've had luck? The short answer is they're quite fine and I haven't done anything, even though parents are a good 20hr flight away.
Is it lonely? Yeah it is at times. But I keep msging ppl and they msg me, so its all good. I enjoy this travel by myself thing. I have a book, and my lonely planet.
Anyways, thats all I have at the moment. When i next find a cyber cafe will give you an update...
So yeah keeping well. Managing ok. Currently in Junagadh, and I plan to leave for Somnath tom sometime. You know those old rackety gov't buses? Thats what I travel in. Its not that bad. You just need to develop a technique to deal with the bumps, otherwise your but gets a severe whack!
And slowly my Hindi is improving. I find myself even thinking in my broken Hindi. So it was great when I spoke to Neeraj today. Another Aussie accent! Actually mine is holding up rather well. Or so a friend told me over the phone. I hunt down tourists and have a chat. And although everyone asks "which country are you from?" I reply "nai...mai Bangalore sai hoon". The hardest guys to covince so far are htel guys over the phone. Which is quite a lot considering from my appearance I stand out like a sre thumb. Don't really need to colour my hair to scream tourist!
But am living the back packer life. I have a back pack and kit bag which does the trick. I decide a couple of days in advance where I go next, and I talk to anyone who wants to talk to me. My opening line at a bus stop is where does this bus go. And it flows from there.
In Ajanta myself and some Americans got lost from the tour guide, so we chatted. Zack is in the military based in Japan, and in the future wants to study arts and history in India. Brave. I also ran into some Italians at Shatrunjaya, but I kept my distance.
But apart from talking to foreigners I have been good. Someone asked me how the girls are and whether I've had luck? The short answer is they're quite fine and I haven't done anything, even though parents are a good 20hr flight away.
Is it lonely? Yeah it is at times. But I keep msging ppl and they msg me, so its all good. I enjoy this travel by myself thing. I have a book, and my lonely planet.
Anyways, thats all I have at the moment. When i next find a cyber cafe will give you an update...
Bibi-Ka-Maqbura
Also known as the poor mans Taj, this was built by Aurangzeb as a tomb to hi wife...
Friday, January 06, 2006
Shatrunjaya...
These are Jain temples on a hill whih you need to climb 3000 steps...near a town called Palitana...
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